We admit we’ve hated on Manish Malhotra a few times in the past, but quelle surprise! We like a few pieces from his Autumn/Winter 2013 collection at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week.

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The Delhi fashion set were treated to a typical Bollywood-style spectacle replete with celebrity cameos and tons of drama. We truly loved several pieces from the collection (the contrast of sheer fabric with phulkari patches in rich autumn colours were beautiful) and the attention to craftsmanship and heritage embroidery art were not missed. But some items were just a bit gaudy, like a multi-layer lengha topped with a phulkari kurti. We also didn’t like the white lengha paired with a long phulkari jacket worn by actress Jacqueline Fernandez. His men’s collection can also use some work.

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Key themes: Rethinking the phulkari (tradition Punjabi weave) into patchwork on anarkalis, jackets, saris and vests; lots of sheer panels with broad silks borders in deep navy, burgundy and black shades. Deep, rich jewel tones ranging from violet to ruby compliments by mendhi green/olive tones. Minimal makeup with a focus on deep berry toned lips.

Pieces we covet: The two anarkali suits above caught our eye, as did an A-line suit with alternating phulkari patches and sheer panels paired with a salwaar.

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Photography Courtesy: FDCI and Wills Lifestyle Group