Whether it’s to premiere their new line or revitalize their signature look, debutante designers and industry pros go hand-in-hand at Lakme Fashion Week.
Story by Rumnique Nannar
This season’s Winter Festive 2013 collections were characterized by regional style, goth and noir looks, and the abundance of celebrities on the runway. Amidst all the fabulous clothes, five talented designers caught our eye with their quirky, wacky, classic and vibrant collections.
Little Shilpa’s (Shilpa Chavan) collection “Grey Matter” is an absolutely bonkers and innovative collection that draws on her work as a milliner and as a fashion rebel. The collection deconstructed the sari and the katori choli with finesse and creativity, and paired her signature head and neck accessories with tartan silk saris draped across men’s shirts, which gave the collection a very futuristic and androgynous look. However, this time the designs took precedence over the gorgeous and jaw-dropping hats and headdresses, as the inventive saris and lungis made for a very interesting boxy silhouette for women.
Rixi Bhatia & Jayesh Sachdev
We absolutely adore prints, including the loud and the garish variety, which is what Quirk Box designers Rixi Bhatia and Jayesh Sachdev delivered with their eclectic first collection. Drawing inspiration from manga comics that were featured on waistcoats and jackets, and the taxicabs of Mumbai, these designs kept the silhouettes simple and let the prints rule. The signature pieces from the menswear collection were particularly impressive with structured tailoring, funky shorts and vibrant ties.
Nikhil Thampi unveiled his new collection, “Indian Punk,” which utilizes grunge silhouettes and vampish netting to accentuate the designer’s new direction. Thampi returns to his South Indian roots and used Kathakali as his key motif in the lehengas, maxi dresses and sherwani suits for men. The silhouettes were gorgeous and accentuated by a bolero-lungi combo and crisp and neat draping that was always cinched at the waist. Thampi also collaborated with accessories designer Nitya Arora’s Valliyan, which saw lots of chunky bracelets, dangling belts, big brooches, and striking double nose studs on the models.
Harshitaa C. Deshpande
This has to be one of my favourite collections from all of the emerging designers. Harshitaa C. Deshpande embraces the warrior style of the Maratha dynasty with fierce and wicked angular silhouettes, sharp draping and handwoven techniques. Deshpande crafted this special collection with handloom artists from across the country to showcase this time-worn tradition of Indian clothing.
As we well know, florals are in at the moment and show no signs of slowing down, but one of the more delicate and softer floral looks was by new designer Eshaani Jayaswal. Inspired by watercolour art at the Tata Talent Box, Jayaswal used textiles like tulle, crepe, silk, georgettes, and net to give the collection a very smart edge. The clothes acted as canvases for floral artistry. Boleros, peplum, high-waisted trousers and dresses created a slender silhouette which were all so adorable and a great fit for the fall.
See our favourite looks from these 5 up-and-coming designers below:
Photography: Lakme Fashion Week