Sabyasachi Mukherjee opened India Couture Week 2014 last night, and it was a gorgeous display of his signature style: opulent, nostalgic and minimalist styling. We like.
“Ferozabad” by Sabyasachi Mukherjee was a beautiful show, set within a train straight from the history books. Sabyasachi is known for his nostalgic, regal collections that often nod to royal and colonial memories of beauty and romance, and this year’s couture collection is no different.
But his work is repetitive. His signature style – detailed thread embroidery, zardozi, florals, vintage prints and fabrics – has revitalized Indian couture over the past few years, but there’s nothing really new to his 2014 collection. The necklines are the same, the floral prints we enjoyed last year, and the cut of the gowns, poplin and bandhgala jackets, and lehengas are similar to what we saw in his past two (or even three) collections. That all said, his work remains exquisite.
Trends for Women: Florals remain big for prints and embroidery. Tulle and tea-dyed khadi saris, Benarasi silk saris, peplum tops, long sleeved and high-neck blouses, and floor-length gowns with deep v-necks and fitted long sleeves. The details lie in the embroidery: sequins, muted gold and silver zardozi, and beading.
Trends for Men: Bandhgala jackets with 18-carat gold buttons, bright 70s inspired floral prints, soft floral block-print kurtas and trousers, zardozi embroidered blazers, and pashmina shawls.
Colours: Beige, dusty pink, soft robin’s egg blue, burgundy, and contrasts between ivory and deep green or crimson embroidery.
Styling: Dupattas are worn over the shoulder and across the body, belted at the waist. Minimal makeup. Berry lips, clean middle-parted hair swept back in a low bun, and no jewellery except maybe diamond or pearl studs in the earrings. For men, facial hair is a must! Groom that beard, curl the mustache, and comb your hair into a side part for vintage flair.
Click through our slideshow below to see more photographs from Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s India Couture Week show:
Watch Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s runway show below: