“The Coronation” by Suneet Varma

Debauched, ambrosial, embellished, rich and lush are the perfect descriptors for a decadent dessert OR the latest collection by Indian designer, Suneet Varma.

Varma layered and draped. Embossed and feathered. Jeweled and bowed. His aim was to spin his magic couture wand over the gorgeous royals/models in attendance at the coronation of, “The Coronation of Princess Theodora and Justinian the Great” of the Byzatine era.

Materials included silk organza, chiffon, georgette with gold and silver appliqué, and chantilly lace evoking an aura of opulence.

Much like Chanel’s Paris to Bombay (Pre-fall 2012) presentation, this show was also devoid of any ramps, and was set like a royal court – very similar in feel to the colonial feast laid out for Chanel. Affluence and sumptuousness oozing everywhere.

But whereas Lagerfeld has been criticized for over-doing a typical Indian aesthetic in his show, Varma, in my opinion, took the European decadence a little too literally. Crowns, feathered headwear, high-ruffled collars, cuffs and sashes were typical Byzantine dress and Varma did not use them sparingly.

His connections to Indian bridal wear was subtle to say the least, even while recognizing that styling for a show is meant to be over the top. This fashion observer, while blown away by the fabulous materials and embroideries, would have loved to see a more in-depth and thought-provoking analysis of ceremonial life.

Story By: Paromita Naidu, Lotus Eye